The day's done stampede

Yesterday, Grace and Paul (my friends, a very nice couple who have opened their house to me here in Beijing, while I try to find a way to settle down) took me and Fei Fei (a girl from Xinjiang, China) out to dinner. We had some dumplings at a restaurant and then some shaved ice at another restaurant inside this one large shopping center near the apartment.

At about 10, the ice place was going to close so they had the bill paid while we were still eating. When the music stopped, we decided it must be time to go. The server said she would take us out. I thought this was a little bizarre, I mean, sometimes when you eat at someone's house they will walk you out, but not at a restaurant. We had to go down to the first floor and then, instead of using the main entrance, we had to use the staff entrance as the mall had already closed.

When we got to the main floor there was literally a flood--a stampede--of chinese women all aged between 20 and 35 years old. I kept thinking, "Wow! A lot of people wait until the last minute before finishing their shopping!"

When we got to the staff entrance one whole wall was filled with time clocks, used to punch-in and out of work--that's when I realized that all these women stampeding out of the building were store workers who had just got off work. Now they were wearing their normal clothes and racing out. It was just quite a sight and situation to be in. A first for me to have closed a shopping center. I think it's the only time in China when I have felt like I was walking slowly, so many people stepped on my heels as they tried to get to the door.

back to square one

Well, I was supposed to be at work now. But yesterday, on my first day, I was fired.

Ok, not fired... but there's no way for the company to get me a work permit. Apparently it's really hard for someone under 25 and with my skill set (nonexistent) to apply for a work permit. As they already have a lot of foreigners working there, it would be really hard to get another. So the back room administration gave me the axe. I even offered myself as an intern, doing the same amount of work, but less pay and under a student visa... the guy trying to hire me liked that, but the administration said no way--it requires a letter from my university or college saying this internship will be for credit.

So, that put an end to it. My boss (ex-boss, rather) was pretty disappointed. He had no idea.

I'm not sure whether this means that I won't be able to work at all, or that just this company refuses to try and get me through the system. I am going to look for volunteer opportunities around Beijing and possibly some classes, and just basically keep my eyes and ears open for possible interesting things to do like that, or for whatever they might be.

I see it as a positive, it would have been nice to be set and on my way--but maybe going back to square one is a good thing.

Closing Ceremonies

Well. I didn't have a ticket to the closing ceremony.

I heard that there were going to be fireworks in like 19 places around the city. As I had no ticket to get into the Olympic Green, I decided to go to Tiananmen Square. I left for the square around 5ish... turns out the subway stations around there were all closed, so I took the bus. Even the ticket seller was like, "I don't know if the road will be closed or not." In addition to the guards, volunteers, and traffic police, there were soldiers at every intersection and bus stop. Swat tanks and vans were in front of a couple places along Jianguomen street (the street that runs right in front of Mao's picture on Tiananmen).

The bus made it no problem and I got off and made my way to where I thought I was going to watch the fireworks, but I couldn't get through. Everything was closed off. Apparently the fireworks were going to be set off down there--south of Tiananmen square. I was hoping to go there where they have large outdoor television, watch the closing outside and then watch the fireworks. To get to that area, I would have had to go pretty far west. Everything was all closed off.

So instead, on my way to where I could head west and then south, I changed my mind. I headed north, right next to the Forbidden City and ate in a small Beijing restaurant called "the taste of the city." I sat down there and ordered a bunch of food. I was really hungry. I had some dumplings and edamame and then a fried vegetable and meat thing (delicious). 

When the closing ceremony started I had finished my meal and was just having another beer. The restaurant was full now and I was drinking with two other guys. The three of us all planned on heading to Tiananmen to watch the fireworks. 

At about 9:15 we started making our way over to the Square. It was full of people, but really not too crowded. We sat on the ground for a bit and after maybe 10 minutes the fireworks began.

They were really something. If I ever figure out how to link pics and / or get around to putting them up, they probably don't do it justice, but it was amazing.

After that the crowds parted and had to walk a ways to get the subway as all the nearby stations were closed.

It was a great night.

What a crazy week!

My "internship/volunteer turned job" ended yesterday. I was working for YPO (an international organization of presidents of companies). They had a family trip for their members to come to Beijing and see the Olympics. I applied months ago and was told they didn't have enough money to afford me even if I didn't have to stay in the hotel. So I replied that I would come on as a volunteer.

That changed when they had more than enough money to pay me full time... and full time it was. Days averaged over 13 hours. I ended up working on the registration packets and bags making sure everything was situated correctly. That turned into being in charge of the room gifts. Each night at least 5 things had to be distributed to each of the 86 rooms the members were staying in. It fell on me to be in charge, so I ended up managing the logistics and distribution of room gifts. It was a lot of responsibility and a lot of deadlines. The first night didn't turn out so well, as I ended up running through the hotel putting things in each persons room with a couple other staff, trying frantically to finish before they came back from an outing.

After that, I managed to alter the logistics so that all I would have to do is have a bag for each room, so that the right stuff got put down, but of course the problem than is that the hotel and other staff put the things in the right order in the room or on the bed--in the set up that the Program Chair would think would look nice. Just a little pressure.

It turned out really well though. I was a manager of a small staff in a sweat box storage room in the bowels of the basement of the JW Marriott in Beijing. I learned things about my managing style, strengths and weaknesses, as well as how much I love deadlines.

Today is the first day off, and it's weird not having anything to do. I'm glad I have a job starting Monday. Part time work with a student recruiting company that recruits students to go to schools in Australia, the UK, Canada, and the US. I'm excited for the challenges and opportunities that I'll find there, though part of me hopes the hours aren't as crazy!

Only in China?

So I'm working in the JW Marriott for YPO. They have a group that's coming in tomorrow and I'm helping the management team get ready. It's a short term job but a lot of work. I've been working about 12 hours a day the last couple of days, and I think it's going to be longer days once everyone arrives and the program starts. 

At any rate, next to this hotel there is a really tall smoke stack. Nothing is coming out of it now--maybe the factory (or whatever the place is) is closed during the Olympics. At any rate, the reaction to it during the day is nothing pleasant--it's a polluting structure that is unpleasant to look at and is ruining the planet! And it's in the city next to this nice new hotel. It's an obstruction and I don't think you'd often find a smokestack in close proximity to a hotel.

Well, at night this unpleasant product of China's unbelievably fast industrialization lights up. Figures dance on it and spotlights light up. It's actually got it's own light show. Sometimes it has Olympic figures dancing on it, other times it changes colors fully green to blue to purple in slow fades. It's really quite pretty. The first time I saw it, I think I let out a "wow."

And then I think, how often do you say that about a smokestack? Only in China, I guess.

08/08/08

Well, I think it is a little sad, but the smog is still quite heavy.

I was watching on TV yesterday and the IOC had their "Doctor" telling everyone that this is just fog. But I'm pretty sure fog lifts or burns off as the day goes on. Visibility is maybe around half a mile to a mile. It's been worse... but you have to say it's a little sad on the opening day. They've had half their cars on the road for nearly a month and almost all factories in the Beijing area have been closed. I guess you can't rush clean up like this.

For the Ceremony, I'm probably going to go to my Jiujiu's (Host family Uncle's) house for his birthday. I was asking Chen Chen (Gao's daughter) last night what I should bring as a gift. I think I'll bring a box of his favorite cigarettes... But they invited me again multiple times last night. So might as well take them up on the offer. It's that or go to a party at this tea house I've been going to a lot. I think I'd rather go to a Chinese birthday party. I wonder if the traditions are Western... or what happens.

My volunteer position is probably going to start tomorrow. I have to drop some stuff off today, and I think they have some tasks they want to give me for tomorrow. It's really excited to work with a group that's coming over to see the Olympics. And the possibility of getting into some events too... though I'm not going to hold my breath.

There's no such thing as free Opening Ceremony tickets; dumplings, maybe.

Today I took a bus into the old part of town. I just wanted to wander around some hutongs, or old alleyways. Along the old alleyways there used to be courtyard houses, or large homes where an entire family would live together around one courtyard. Since the start of the PRC these have given way to multiple families living around one single courtyard. This would mean these places went from eight people around one courtyard to eight families. Recently foreigners and wealthy Chinese are buying these old courtyard houses and refurbishing them to be modern-day homes on old properties.

Like most foreigners, I have a love for the hutongs. Their culture and history emanate as you walk between their stone gray walls along the alleys. Large red doors lead into each courtyard house and you catch glimpses of the world within when they're left ajar.

I came out onto a larger street. Feeling a little bit hungry, I went into a dumpling restaurant. Ordered some dumplings and a beer. I chatted a little bit with the boss and servers as they bustled around. The small 12 table restaurant was packed and tables were turned over before they were cleared of the leftovers from the party before. Typical for a busy restaurant in China.

The table across from mine sat two men. Before my dumplings arrived, a third man joined them. I got my dumplings and after finishing them, I was going to ask for the check when the three men at the table across from me invited me to join them. "We'll have another beer!" the man next to me shouted.

Started talking to them. The two men who were there originally were both from Beijing and they are police officers, the third who had joined them was from Taiwan he was there I guess for the Olympics. He could speak some English, but for the most part our conversation was in English. The Taiwanese guy was telling me all about how he has passes to all kinds of events, not tickets. So that means with a basketball pass, for example, he could go see any game he wanted to. Sounds pretty nice. He then told me he has opening ceremony tickets too. Not bad. I am so jealous. I think one of the cops was like, "give him your phone number" as far as helping me out with tickets. The Taiwanese guy shrugged it off. So I said, "I heard any tickets had to be exchanged before July 15 in order for them to work." The Taiwanese guy looked at me with a "and you believe everything you hear in China face?". Then one of the police officers said that that wasn't true. The Taiwanese guy then changed the subject.

So... my not believing everything in China side of me would say, take this with a grain of salt. I am trying to find a good idea for something to do that night. I'd love to be close enough to see the fireworks!

We talked for a while until we had all finished our beers. Then the older police man paid for my dumplings and my two beers as well as their food and beers. He wouldn't take no for an answer.

We went our separate ways after that, just a random stranger buying me a meal and offering a nice little chat. Though I didn't get any Opening Ceremony tickets, I can't complain about a free dinner.

A polite refusal

I know I write about the buses a lot, but they and their culture truly fascinate me.

One thing I've started to notice is the ticket sellers will sometimes announce that an old person is getting on the bus. (There are signs on all buses informing riders that certain seats are reserved for the elderly, sick, disabled, pregnant, and small children.) If no one gives up a seat, the ticket seller will ask someone to give up their seat. Someone eventually will stands up, but sometimes, that's not the problem. It then becomes a question of whether the older person will take the seat.

Granted, there are always the people who are very thankful that someone younger would give up their seat. Especially if they are going a long way, or there's a lot of stop and go traffic, or it seems they just can't take the ride standing. However, twice now I have seen scenarios where the ticket seller asks someone to give up their seat calling it out to anyone who would listen, someone gives up their seat and the ticket seller says to the older person go sit down, but the older person says "no, I'll stand." The ticket seller than got out of their seat behind their little podium walked over and literally grabbed the older person by the wrist to take them to the freshly vacated seat. If the older person puts up a fight still, it seems, the ticket seller just gives up and lets them stand.

It's like some men, as in the cases I have seen it's been men, don't want to admit that their old or they don't want to admit that they lack the strength to stand for the bus route that they have probably ridden for years. Fighting against getting older. Or maybe just stubborn. Or they just want to let someone else sit down... I like the other ideas regarding fighting against old age. Possibly a trait of humanity. But in a place like China, where culture stipulates respect for elders, and where people will gladly give up their seats for older people, why refuse it?

In the end, it's actually quite comical for all those watching. More often than not the old person will take the seat, but there are some who will refuse to take the seat.

Mountainside Chats

 Yesterday I climbed Xianglu Feng or Incense Burner Peak. The tallest peak in Xiang Shan Park. Xiang Shan, or the Fragrant Hills, Park is located northwest of Beijing proper in the suburbs. I found my way there, yes--remarkably, using the bus system. I switched buses twice, taking three buses that brought me right to the gate of the park.

I started up Xianglu Peak not realizing it was the main one in the park, the one that the chairlift went to. The problem is, once you start up a mountain, you can't just turn around and go back not having made it to the top!

So I kept on trucking. My out of shape self painfully going up each step. Chinese mountains, it seems, all have convenient stone stairs built up the sides. So climbing a tourist mountain in China is basically like climbing a really, really tall stair case. Despite that, it's still a lot of work. 

It was good fun though and so in that way I was a tourist exploring a tourist site. Yet there were a lot of Beijingers climbing the mountain too, all taking advantage of the weather. It was such a beautiful day, you just couldn't resist it. A little hot, though, at about 35 degrees Celsius or 95 F and humid. Oof. 

Though I was just one person climbing the mountain, I was climbing at the pace of a bunch of other people, so it was like we were all in this together. Talking to each other, commenting on the heat, giving each other the ol' Chinese words of support "add oil!" or "jia you!" 

I think that's one of my favorite things about China, the number of single serving friends you can make anywhere. While in the US I think you can make single serving friends, or people you meet and talk to but then never meet again, it's much more difficult. For example, the only place it happens on a regular basis is on a plane. In China, however, it seems like the defenses are all much lower, or there's a lot less holding back--people are less hesitant and more willing to talk to strangers. I used to think it was just because I was a foreigner who could speak Chinese, and that would draw someone in to make a single serving friend. But having been here for a while I realize that it happens between Chinese a lot too. 

To give you an idea of how people are much less hesitant to start talking, the questions that are acceptable in China are about health, money, family, love life, basically anything is acceptable. So it's not uncommon for a Chinese person to ask me about how much it costs for me to live here or if I'm married. Any of those things are acceptable. In listening to Chinese talking with other Chinese who they might not know, the same questions might be asked. 

In preparation for the Olympics, the Chinese government has published a list of questions they are not allowed to ask foreigners who have come to watch the games (from danwei.org). In my 557 meter summit and descent (or hill climb), I still managed to make plenty of single serving friends, despite that statement. 

That has just been something I have come to love, and I hope the government doesn't try to make it completely obsolete. Though the questions aren't as invasive (in western standards) as they were over a year ago when I was here. It's still one of my favorite parts of being here, and because of that I often start up the chat first. No matter where I am, on the bus, subway, street, or mountainside I try to make a single serving friend or two. And the Chinese are more than willing to have a friendly chat.

The siji's new clothes

Well, we're one week before the Opening Day ceremonies! I walked outside today and found that all the cabdrivers were wearing the same outfit. I love taxicab culture in Beijing, so whenever I get a chance I always start up a little chat with one, even when I'm not riding. The new clothes offered a perfect conversation starter. I asked one driver, and it turns out this is the new uniform for cabbies.

Before there didn't seem to be a uniform, they wore basic dark color pants and a white or light blue shirt. At least, I don't think that was a specified uniform. Now they have dark navy pants with cargo pockets and zippers everywhere. The pants have the English words "Beijing Taxi" written on one side above a pocket. The cabbies wear a yellow button down shirt and some wear a striped tie. Others have the top buttons of their shirts open. All the different cab companies have this same uniform.

I asked another one as I was walking and it turns out if they don't wear this uniform they can be fined by the Police. That's pretty intense. "Serve the People! for the Olympics!" He told me in Chinese. Not bad at all. He told me the tie wasn't standard because it "could be dangerous." Then he made a flapping arm motion of the tie flying around his neck and waving into the back seat. I couldn't tell if he meant it could choke him or if the person riding in the backseat would be whipped by it when the windows were open. Either way, it's dangerous.

With a set uniform, the only thing I worry is that the clothes will be washed less? I hope not, some cabbies already have a scent all their own. I can never tell if it's the cabs they drive or those cabbies themselves. At any rate, I think the uniforms look pretty classy and it makes the cabbies look more dignified for such tiring, hard work. I just hope the starting price doesn't increase come next Friday with all this dignification.